Some award-winning Malbecs produced locally
Published in the Oct. 29 – Nov. 11, 2014 issue of Morgan Hill Life
By Alicia Cuadra-Cutler
Alicia Cuadra
Many times in the tasting room we hear people exclaim “Malbec, that’s from Argentina right?” Well, most of what consumers are familiar with does indeed come from Argentina, and it is the country’s largest wine export. But the grape itself actually originates from France.
Cahors, a region in Southern France, has the most (and some of the oldest) Malbec vines in the world. This area currently has the largest producers of Malbec-based wines in France, as all other regions that use it do so in such small amounts.
The grape once thrived in Bordeaux, but heavy frosts in 1965 wiped out a vast majority, and it was re-planted with the heartier and more versatile Merlot mostly. Today the remaining vines in Bordeaux are used for blending in minute quantities, and many do not even use it at all.
In California, we see it mostly as a component of the Bordeaux-style blends, commonly called Meritage (which rhymes with heritage) as one of the main five grapes of the blend. We commonly see winemakers using this grape along with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot to make luscious red blends.
Argentina is indeed the largest exporter of Malbec wines, and it has come to be known as the mainstay of the wines we find in this area.
These vines however, actually originate from clippings of French Malbec vines. Some people involved with viticulture science research claim the vines found in Mendoza, Argentina are possibly grown from cuttings that pre-date some of the largest frost and pest events in the history of the wine world.
We make a big deal in California about old vine Zinfandel, but I hope we take a moment to appreciate the old vines in Argentina that have out lasted wars and the decimation of vineyards worldwide.
Here in the Santa Clara Valley we see great award-winning expressions of Malbec from local producers. Some of my favorites are Martin Ranch, Castillo’s Hillside Shire, Sycamore Creek and Jason-Stephens. These wineries make great Malbecs that showcase the best of this type of wine.
It’s not surprising that we have some award-winning wines here in our own backyard, an area that supports a wide range of microclimates and soil types.
Cheers to the winemakers of the Santa Clara Valley taking a chance on a little known but widely appreciated grape. We salute you!
Alicia Cuadra-Cutler is a Certified Sommelier, and Assistant General Manager of Sycamore Creek Vineyards. In her spare time she can be found studying wine, creating art or taking her dog Sissy to the beach. Follow her on social media @AliciaCSomm.
